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It´s Carnival time in the Canary Islands this month. As a wave of celebration engulfs these seven specks of Spain. Located just off the coast of West Africa.
And whilst the revelry may not be as raucous as Rio, Carnival is still a big noise on islands such as Lanzarote. Spanning weeks of serious partying and effectively closing many businesses and local government offices down. As workers swap their desks for costumes and masks.
Carnival was first introduced to the Canary Islands by the Spanish conquistadors in the 15th Century. As they swept west from Lanzarote to subdue the indigenous Guanche population of the seven islands. And was a tradition that had in turn been inherited from the last days of the Roman Empire.
The purpose of Carnival was to allow people to blow off steam and let down their hair before the onset of Lent. Which spelled 40 days of sacrifice and deprivation. And as such can in fact be viewed retrospectively as a form of social safety valve. Not least as the fiesta also cut across social divisions – allowing all classes to mix on an equal footing behind the cover of costumes.
Today, Carnival in the Canaries retains a strong Latin American influence. Thanks to the fact that the islands were once an important staging post on the trade routes between the Old World and the New. Acting as a place where Spanish galleons transporting Inca gold and silver could off load and refuel. Before transporting African slaves back to South America in the opposite direction. Making the Canaries a melting pot of cultural influences.
Carnival has also retained a strongly anti-authoritarian bent over the centuries – providing people with the chance to deflate and poke fun at both local and international figures. Most usually politicians. Via the medium of intricate costumes that are planned months ahead by hardcore Carnival-goers. Indeed such is the importance of costume that there are numerous shops on each island dedicated solely to the creation of outré outfits for the event.
Excess is the other central pillar of Carnival. And the Coñejeros really leave social reserve at home when it comes to this event. With the streets packed with drunken revellers throughout the night. And such is the scale of the event that many tourists plan their holidays around Carnival. Booking up apartments and hotels in Lanzarote months in advance.
The central focus of every Carnival in the Canaries is the main procession. Which typically features brightly decorated and cleverly themed floats – backed up with the massed ranks of batacuda drum bands. Which together beat a loud and syncopated path through the throngs of revellers.
These batacuda drum bands practice their rhythms and routines all year round – and once all dressed identically in their carnival costumes create something of a spectacle.
On the eastern most Canary Island of Lanzarote Carnival goes on for weeks. Rolling from one town to the next. The event kicks off in the island capital of Arrecife and runs through until February 25th. Before moving on to the islands main holiday resort of Puerto de Carmen. Where the whole party starts over again from February 26th.
Whilst on Gran Canaria the action starts in the capital of Las Palmas from February 13th through until the 28th. And then in Maspalomas from March 13th.
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